Hebron's old city is a staggering 3000 years old, which makes Hebron one of the oldest city worldwide. Only 30% of the city is accessible. Well for the Palestinians at least, the rest of the world heritage site is, of course, guarded, by walls and barbed wire. This is including the Abraham Mosque, the place where today at least 30 Palestinians stood peering through the fence looking at this incredible piece of their religion, yet not being able to come any closer. I am aware that I keep going on about this concept, yet it is because I simply can't grasp the idea. It has gotten to a stage with me that I just find it ironically funny/stupid. Whenever I see a guard tower or Israeli soldiers, I just think: "Oh look, he is yet another wall. What a surprise". This is the exact same way that Muhammad feels, laughingly saying oh well that's life.
That is exactly the point. That isn't meant to be life. While walking through the city, suddenly Muhammad stopped suddenly, listening to what I presume were radio news. A 40-year-old man got shot down by the Israeli army in the city of Ramallah. This is their reality, and they just laugh it off, because they know for a certain fact that there is nothing they can do about it.
The old city of Hebron is incredible. Snaking through the buildings are thin alleyways and halls; some of the ceilings are no more than 170cm high so I spent most of the time ducking. They were built so closely and tight, in order to keep the inhabitants cool during the very hot summer and warm during the cold winters.
I was very surprised by the fact that throughout Hebron one doesn't see much international support. There is a small UN building which I have seen, apart from that nothing. Whereas in the old city at every corner one sees a german flag, an American flag, a Spanish flag and a British flag. All of these demonstrating that these countries had decided to support and preserve the history of Hebron.
It surprised me simply, because a lot of western countries, especially America criticise Palestine openly and support Israel; and with this seeing them support the H1 (the Palestinian side) of Hebron. It demonstrates the fact that countries see this huge cultural and historial heritage which needs to be protected, despite their political opinion.
The rest of the day and night, I spent with Muhammad, Omar and Yazeed. People who over the last week I would call friends. We have spent a lot of time with each other and I have had a great time with them, and thereby I am feeling very melancholy that tomorrow will be my last day.